Ten Unconventional Knowledge About Dinning Tables Set That You Can’t Learn From Books

WASHINGTON — After 85 years, best restaurants stick with what works.

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And that’s absolutely accurate of the Bernardi’s eateries, which included flagship operations Mona’s and Capponi’s in Toluca, additional three added locations in axial Illinois. But the Washington area afresh added a new touch: patio dining, a simple accoutrement of wire-mesh tables beneath a advanced overhang. Nice.

Further, the accession served as a admonition that Dining Out had not visited the Washington atom in added than a decade. So off we went, my wife and I, to chase already afresh for Italian-American delights.

Inside, the atmosphere is as agreeable as ever: oilcloth-topped tables and booths, black-and-white restaurant photos and back-slapping babble throughout. The menu, as always, is vast, with a abundant abounding possibilities involving pasta, craven and sausage.

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But the meal excels far afore the entrees. The bassinet of abrupt bread, which can be biconcave into olive oil and Parmesan cheese, could be a meal in itself. And admitting ancillary salads in best joints aren’t necessarily noteworthy, Bernardi’s dressings (my wife’s activated abode Italian, my adorable Caesar) access with flavor.

The sausage bites ($7.25) accept the best backward actualization of conceivably any appetizer on earth: chunks of sausage (about two links’ worth) are anniversary topped with a pepper arena and poked with a cocktail toothpick. The sausage is balmy yet rich, and the pepper adds a appealing zing. Bernardi’s aureate barbecue booze comes on the side, but the bites are aged abundant after any dipping.

The blimp mushrooms ($8.25) absorb a assortment of sausage, garlic, herbs and Parmesan cheese awash into a abounding ‘shroom cap, afresh topped with Alfredo sauce. It’s a garlic-accented delight.

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For an entree, as we’d never ventured into Bernardi’s seafood selections, my wife autonomous for the North Atlantic apricot ($18.95), which she ordered blackened. The beef was close but juicy, absolute in every way. On the side, the Italian-style blooming beans, which agency they’re alloyed with tomatoes, were solid.

I couldn’t abide a Bernardi’s standard: the absurd half-chicken ($12.95), which boasts a thick, abrupt brew that can’t be beat. For my side, the garlic mashed potatoes were aerated and light, and not overwhelmingly garlicky. An added $3 buys a ancillary of tortellini bathed in Bernardi’s acclaimed meat sauce, a altogether counterbalanced brew that ability be the best affair on a absurd menu.

Our server, Brooke, was as agreeable as she was speedy. The alone downside (though slight) was the accession of the salads aloof moments afore the appetizers, which meant for a rather awash table. Afresh again, it was a awash table anyway, as commons at Bernardi’s tend to be — so abundant so that (even with abounding take-home boxes) we could not acquisition allowance for dessert.

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Next time. With Bernardi’s — or Mona’s, or Capponi’s, or whatever armpit — there’s consistently the allurement of abutting time.

PHIL LUCIANO can be accomplished at pluciano@pjstar.com, facebook.com/philluciano and (309) 686-3155. Follow him on Twitter.com/LucianoPhil.

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